Grunge

«Teen Spirit»

The 90s are making a reappearance , much to the joy of those who have been feeling nostalgic for Nirvana. Spring/Summer 2016 Season has a surprise in store. Rebels are coming back!

The atmosphere of rebellious spirit attacks the podiums this season. Heavy leather jackets, kind of second-hand clothing, slouchy sweaters and tops, loose jackets and pants, graphic t-shirts, clunky shoes (sneakers, combat boots), dark colours, cropped tops, pattern mixing and casual hairstyles are again taking / have taken a better part of fashion.

The slouchy 1990s grunge style was born as a popular youth subculture back in 1991 with the appearance of the grunge rock brand Nirvana and their uber-successful album ‘Nevermind’. It goes without saying that the new musical band became a real trendsetter both in the music and fashion industry, establishing a new genre in these worlds, which was meant to live forever.

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Yet there is a more feminine side to the grunge inspired by Courtney Love who embodies sophistication and uptown aesthetics with less ripped jeans and more feminine, ethereal looks quite often interpreted in chiffon and organza.

Moreover, the grunge style has become so popular nowadays, that it even features some sub-genre looks, such as grunge indie, neo-grunge or glam grange, which is more girly and sophisticated. Since fashion trends know the tactics of attracting attention best of all and the grunge trend is no exception to this end.

Grunge can be considered as “nonfashion.” The grunge youth, born of hippies and raised on punk, reinterpreted these components through their own post-hippie, post-punk, West Coast aesthetics. Grunge was essentially a slovenly, thoughtless, uncoordinated look, but with an edge. Iconic items for men and women were ripped and faded jeans which were interpreted by Philipp Plein this season, flannel shirts or wool Pendletons layered over dirty T-shirts with outdated logos created by Yves Saint Lauren, and black combat-style boots such as Dr. Martens which inspired Louis Vuitton. All these garments were born in the fullness of time because the temperature in Seattle can swing by 20 degrees the same day, it is convenient to have a wool long-sleeved button-down shirt that can be easily removed and then tied around one’s waist. The style for plaid flannel shirts and wool Pendletons is regional, having been a longtime staple for local lumberjacks and logging-industry employees-it was less a fashion choice than a utilitarian necessity.

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It could be clearly seen that in this season such brands as Luis Vuitton, Yves Saint Lauren, Alexander Wang, Acne Studio and Philipp Plein have strong Grunge Vibes in their DNA.          Each brand has interpreted it in quite a different but at the same time a very unique way.

At Yves Saint Lauren’s show the teen spirit was in the air. Every single garment was screaming about Nirvana and the Seattle of the 90s.   Ripped jeans, oversized jackets, printed shirts and of course typical of Kurt Cobain’s style white sunglasses. For women Yves Saint Lauren prepared the tender silk dresses, extremely feminine inspired by Courtney Love. To complete the character of the look the diamond diadem was added on the head of the all models.

In its turn Alexander Wang concentrated just on the heavy part of grunge. Dark colours such as grey, blue, black and green were presented in his collection. Oversized outfits, wide use of leather and super comfortable, free cuts were protagonists in his collection.

However, Acne Studio has presented a different vision of the grunge fashion. It was more minimal and even more comfortable. Grunge notes barely noticeable however, gave spice to the collection by making it more complicated and sophisticated.

Luis Vuitton’s grunge interpretation truly rocks. It astonishes by a crazy mixture of heavy leather garments with soft, light and tender dresses and skirts. Each outfit is created to amaze and at the same time to emphasize two sides of women’s nature – the affectionate one and the absolutely strong and mad side of it.

Also, Philipp Plein used a lot the darkest parts of grunge in his collection. It is the dark leather grunge through which shone a beautiful, feminine mood of a rock star celebrity.

In conclusion, it could be seen that there are no strict rules for grunge style. It is all about being comfortable and fiery. Put aside your complexes, restrictions and embrace the grunge fashion trend in its entire splendor! Just wear what you really like and you’ll definitely find your peculiar and comfy grunge style.

What grunge did for music it also did for fashion. Grunge opened the door to recycled clothes for everyone as a fashionable, and even a chic, choice. Grunge defined a new approach to dressing that included layering and juxtapositions of patterns and textures. The DIY approach to dress has become the norm, giving the consumer the freedom to choose, to not be a slave to one look or designer, and the confidence to create personal ensembles with the goal of self-expression through style.

 

Bibliogrpahy

Coddington, Grace.(1992) “Grunge and Glory.” Vogue. (December 1992: 254-263).

Dingwall ,Cathie. (1996) “Surfers, Soulies, Skin-heads, and Skaters: Subcultural Style from the Forties to the Nineties”. V&A Publications, London.

Polhemus, Ted.(1994) “Street Style: From Sidewalk to Catwalk”. Thames and Hudson, Inc., London.

Sims, Joshua. (1999) “Rock/Fashion”. Omnibus Press, London.

Steele, Valerie. (1997) “Fifty Years of Fashion: New Look to Now”. Yale University Press, New Haven, Conn., and London.

Bell Price, Shannon, 2010, “Fashion History “. Love to know. [Online] [Accessed on

25th of February, 2016]

http://fashion-history.lovetoknow.com/fashion-history-eras/grunges-influence-fashion

Kingsley, Armine , (2013) ” Grunge Fashion Trend: How to Dress Grunge”. Fashionisers.[Online] [Accessed on25th of February, 2016]

Grunge Fashion Trend: How to Dress Grunge

 

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